“100% price transparency, while great on restaurant websites, doesn’t necessarily make for more enjoyable meals. Eating out would be pretty miserable if the price of your hay-smoked squid steak were etched onto the reclaimed driftwood it was served on, if waiters gave lectures on Champagne markups while pouring $75 glasses of bubbly, and if iPads were affixed to each table displaying a course-by-course feed of how much we’ll owe American Express in 30 days.”
That’s from my Eater review of Ma Peche
, which shows us how dinner can sometimes be more pleasant when we’re not always 100% clear about prices. The downside of course is that dinner becomes more expensive (Source: Eater
Am proud of be part of this team!!! My first review, Roberta’s, will drop today. You’ll also see Bill Addison file on Republique in Los Angeles, while Robert Sietsema will check out Mapo in Queens.
Alinea & Brooklyn Fare are the only two three-Michelin starred restaurants in America that make you pay for the majority of your meal before you eat your meal. But it looks like we’ll get another entry to that category In Europe, at Madrid’s DiverXO, which is moving to the “Hotel NH Eurobuilding” (what a name!) in July. Chef David Muñoz says he’s adopting a ticketing system as NO SHOWS are a problem. Check out the details right over here.
Just felt like saying that. Carry on.
Sometimes it can be very hard to tell whether the NYC Department of Health wants to protect the consumer or whether it just wants to levy fines against a high profile restaurant and make an example out of a spotless three-Michelin-starred kitchen for no good reason. It’s pretty absurd.
That’s one of the more clever reader comments from my Eater column on vaping-while-dining. Of course, for this all to happen, we would need to both legalize marijuana AND overturn the ban on e-cigarettes in restaurants.
"Of course, we need further studies to determine whether the cherry-scented water vapor emitted from e-cigarettes is really harmful. But in the meantime, here’s a short list of other things in restaurants that we know are harmful but aren’t yet banned: Sizzling-hot fajita skillets. Noise. High heels on slippery hardwood floors. Knives. That thing when Koreatown waiters almost hit your face with white hot buckets of charcoal. Sharp toothpicks that hold together pastrami sandwiches. My buddy Sarah after three martinis. Her husband Mark after two chardonnays. Vegan food. Chopsticks, if used as a replacement for Q-tips. And porterhouse steak bones, if filed down and used as javelin spears."
From my Eater column today! Let’s overturn the e-cig ban!
The PARTY starts at 6:30pm and The PANEL Starts at 7pm!!! Join us! Adam Platt and Ed Levine will be on the panel as well!
BUY HOLD OR SELL? (Won’t lie there’s some nice stuff here).
Danny Meyer’s The Modern has essentially eliminated its tasting menu and substituted it with a shorter, cheaper, prix-fixe menu. This isn’t because diners are spending less money. It’s because diners want to spend less time in the restaurant. Will other restaurants follow suit? Perhaps.
Click through for my full essay on Eater.
It’s worth noting that Starr’s group declined comment, so I had to call each of his 31 restaurants, twice, to confirm that fact. It was all part of the research effort for my final Bloomberg News story, about the lack of female head chefs throughout the U.S. restaurant industry. Call it food for thought the night before the Cherry Bombe conference celebrating women in the hospitality industry.
Chef Gavin Kaysen, the talented chef of Cafe Boulud on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, will leave the Dinex Group to open up a restaurant in his hometown of Minneapolis. New York’s loss is Minnesota’s gain; I can’t wait to visit. Kaysen will be replaced by Cafe Boulud’s current chef de cuisine, Aaron Bludorn.
It would’ve been nice for the Michelin-starred venue to have replaced Kaysen with a woman, as there isn’t a single female executive chef at any of Boulud’s 10 restaurants in the U.S. or Canada. Of course, Jean-Georges Vongerichten doesn’t have any female chefs heading up his U.S. restaurants, nor does Stephen Starr nor David Chang nor John Besh nor others.
So technically speaking, Daniel is not an outlier. Carry on.
Women represent only six percent of the head chef positions at 15 prominent U.S. restaurant groups.
WNYC’s Amy Eddings was kind enough to chat with me about my Bloomberg News & Bloomberg Pursuits stories about the lack of female top chefs throughout the U.S. restaurant industry.
Listen through for a proper shout out to Gordon Ramsay. Say what you will about the foul-mouthed Scot, but he’s done a better job at promoting women to head chef jobs than virtually any male chef in America.
Pouring free Champagne is not how to fix an overpriced restaurant, as I explain over at Eater. Villard Michel Richard serves what is likely NYC’s most expensive four-course menu, at $150. We’re calling this one a SELL & a BAD DEAL.